Gooseberries might not be the most glamorous but they pack a punch

These tart, green orbs aren’t as glamorous as strawberries or raspberries but they really pack a punch in the flavour department.

The gooseberry is indigenous to many parts of Europe and western Asia. They grow naturally in thickets and rocky woods. You can find old bushes that grow naturally in hedgerows but it has been a popular to cultivate them here since the 19th century. They’re not here for a long time so it’s good to celebrate and enjoy them while they are and to preserve them for later in the year.

Gooseberries can be used in sweet and savoury dishes. A gooseberry crumble, with the addition of some Armagh apple, cooked to golden deliciousness and served with custard is a pretty perfect and simple way to use them. For an even easier way to cook them they are perfect in a fool. The fruit is simmered with sugar, cooled, mashed and folded into whipped cream. For a bit of crunch I’ve added a crumbly polenta shortbread to dip into the creamy confection.

Gooseberry chutney is a good way to preserve these precious berries. The fruit is boiled with sugar, vinegar, onion, ginger and spices to a thick consistency. Serve with cheeses, salami or oily fish. It works particularly well with grilled mackerel. Gooseberries and elderflower share a season and have a natural affinity. To capture both their essences for future use make a pickle liquor with 100ml each of cider vinegar and water and 50g sugar. Bring to the boil, season with salt and when the sugar has dissolved allow to cool. Place a head of elderflower in a clean jar, cover with the pickle liquor and 200g of topped and tailed gooseberries. Seal and store in a cool place. Serve the pickles with grilled oily fish, roast duck, or pork.

Elderflowers are in their full flourish now. Elderflower champagne is a fun way of preserving their fragrance. You don’t need elaborate wine making equipment – just a clean bucket. It’s best fermented with champagne yeast that you can source on line. You end up with a sparkling wine that’s quite alcoholic but cheap as chips to make. The recipe is included here plus one for an elderflower granita. Granita literally translates from Italian as “little grains” and it is just that. Elderflower cordial is whizzed into a water ice that’s forked up while freezing to produce icy grain like crystals. Spoon some into a coupe, top with the elderflower champagne and garnish with a few new season strawberries for a perfect early summer treat.