The elder isn’t here for long so make the most of it or get the fridge filled

The flowers have a citrusy, grassy scent and taste of honey and ripe pear. Elderflowers have many culinary uses the best known being a cordial. For many years I’ve made elderflower champagne. In the past I fermented it in a glass demi-john and then transferred to wire topped bottles. It was quite the flaff and to be honest there were a few disasters along the way. There can be quite the build up of gas especially if you’ve been overly generous with the yeast. I once opened a bottle only to have the top end up in a nearby field and every drop of the precious elixir all over the lawn. I’ve never been so glad to have taken the precaution of opening it outside.

A more practical and user friendly way of making elderflower champagne is to ferment the mixture of sugar syrup, lemon, yeast and elderflowers in a covered bowl or bucket in the first place. Make sure it’s spotlessly clean. After a few days strain the liquid through muslin or a jeye cloth and pour into plastic bottles. This is the second ferment. Every day gently open the bottles to exude any excess gas. Plastic bottles, unlike glass, can expand a little and the screw top lid isn’t as airtight as a wire cork stopper. At this stage you can place the bottles in the fridge which will stop fermentation. Same delicious result without the drama.

As well as making a lovely drink you could use the champagne to make a jelly. Allow 1 sheet of gelatine for each 100ml of champagne. Soak the leaves in cold water for 10 minutes then add to a small amount of hot champagne to dissolve. When melted add the remaining champagne and pour over glasses of strawberries. Chill and serve with whipped cream, lightly sweetened and garnish with more elderflowers.

Elderflowers also work well in savoury dishes. Here the flowers are added to a cure for mackerel. Allow to marinate for a few hours then wash off the salty cure and cook as normal or serve as it is. I love the combination of elderflower and cucumber and in turn it’s beautiful with the oily fish. For an extra elderflower hit mix yoghurt with elderflowers, grated sharp Granny Smith apple, a little oil and seasoning. This also works well with fried dishes. The elder isn’t here for long so make the most of it or get the fridge filled with champagne.