These lucky swines are living the dream on Co Fermanagh island

Co. Fermanagh butcher Pat O’Doherty goes one better than farm-to-table with his rare-breed pigs - he does island-to-table.
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If you’re out enjoying a peaceful sail on Upper Lough Erne this summer, don’t be surprised if you hear some strange noises coming from one of the islands.

Pat’s herd of 50 pigs roam free on Inish Corkish, which he bought in 2004. The majority of these pigs are the Saddleback breed and in recent years they have become almost completely extinct. Pat wanted to resurrect this breed of pig and so invested in an island in Lough Erne so he could release these pigs into the wild.

“Around here is a paradise. It’s probably the richest environmentally sensitive area in all of the UK for vegetation, wildlife, plant life and fish right around the island,” Pat explained.

Co. Fermanagh butcher Pat O’DohertyCo. Fermanagh butcher Pat O’Doherty
Co. Fermanagh butcher Pat O’Doherty

15 years ago the Fermanagh Black Bacon was born as a result of Pat’s passion to resurrect the local ancient bacon traditions that go back hundreds of years. Trained and qualified in Environment Science, Pat wanted to create a top-quality ethical product which matched the rich food culture of the local area and was sensitive to the environment. His focus is on locally produced bacon with low carbon miles and happy pigs who can roam free.

“They integrate with everything that goes on here. We’ve got the wild deer, we have foxes, the badgers, and believe it or not the only animal on the island that is penned in is the human being. Let’s face it, we’ve done enough damage to farming so we’ve penned in the humans. Every other animal has the chance to roam free. What an ethos to live by.”

Pat’s butchery, O’Doherty’s Fresh Meats in Enniskillen, sells a wide range of meats from Fermanagh lamb to fillet steaks to his award winning burgers. Pat prides himself on taking orders from all over the world, and shipping his products to some of the world’s most famous people, including the royal family.

“It’s created an environment where pigs can live in a paradise. This is piggy heaven. The reality is most pigs in the UK and beyond are reared inside. They live inside for the duration of their entire life and it’s sad because pigs, like humans, are very sociable animals so it’s lovely to be able to give the pigs something back.”

Pat is proud to be carrying on a rich tradition of meat production around Lough Erne. “Prior to the 1940s there was no refrigeration. Bacon has been cured on these islands for hundreds of years by local farmers. When we interviewed the older farmers we worked out what people had been using; different herbs, different salts and method of production. So it’s all about resurrecting the ancient bacon that died out.

“15 years ago the Fermanagh Black Bacon was born as a result of this investigation of this ancient product and suddenly it took off. This is such a unique product. We’ve had some of the most brilliant retailers that have embraced our passion for food. It’s an environment where it oozes yesteryear in relation to the environment.”

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