Our lack of specific Christmas Eve food harks back to the reformation

Unlike many European countries we don’t have a specific dinner or food to celebrate Christmas Eve.
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In Italy they have the “Feast of the Seven Fishes” where, as the name suggests, seven different dishes from the sea or lakes are served.

In Scandinavia they serve a cured salmon, called gradvalax with breads and pickles. From Spain to Eastern Europe it’s a similar story with fish playing the main part at the table.

In Britain our lack of any specific foods on Christmas Eve harks back to the reformation. In Scotland Christ’s Mass was banned, with Presbyterian ministers visiting their flock to make sure they had no excessive food in their houses. The Puritans had a similar influence on the English at this time too but they relaxed a bit after the restoration of the monarchy. It took the Scottish until 1958 before the ban on celebrating Christmas was lifted by the ruling church.

Pasta Fagioli is a classic Italian pasta dish that includes beans and bacon. Here I’ve used tinned beans for convenience but won’t take away from the taste. Picture: PA Photo/PavilionPasta Fagioli is a classic Italian pasta dish that includes beans and bacon. Here I’ve used tinned beans for convenience but won’t take away from the taste. Picture: PA Photo/Pavilion
Pasta Fagioli is a classic Italian pasta dish that includes beans and bacon. Here I’ve used tinned beans for convenience but won’t take away from the taste. Picture: PA Photo/Pavilion

Saint Martin was a soldier in the Roman Army around 300AD who converted to Christianity and was imprisoned because of his refusal to fight. He became a monk and later vehemently tried to avoid being made Bishop of Tours by hiding in a goose pen. The geese squawked loudly and he was discovered. He was forced to take up the appointment and goose is eaten throughout Europe at this time to punish them for what they did to Saint Martin. St Martinmas Day is the 11th of November and in medieval times all the animals were culled on this day and cured meats and blood puddings were made to sustain people throughout the winter. 40 day cured and spiced meat would have been eaten on Christmas Day as a result of the butchery in November in remembrance of St Martin.

As we don’t really have any food traditions associated with Christmas Eve here you can afford to use a bit of artistic licence. The reality often is that we’re running around so much on the day before Christmas that the last thing we think of would be to stop and cook in the first place. All the emphasis is placed on the big turkey dinner the next day. I’ve devised a menu using store cupboard ingredients and essentials. The starter is stuffed eggs – they can be eaten on the hoof with no need to cutlery. They’re flavoured with chorizo and smoked paprika for a bit of a kick. Pasta Fagioli is a classic Italian pasta dish that includes beans and bacon. Here I’ve used tinned beans for convenience but won’t take away from the taste. To finish there’s a recipe for a chocolate and caramel pudding with an orange salad. The caramel is a sweet tucked into the chocolate sponge. When you cut into the cooked pudding the caramel should melt. No house would be complete at this time of year without a bowl of clementines or oranges and they make the salad to accompany.

Hope your festive dinner is a success and wishing you a very Christmas.

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