Cauliflower can always be elevated to the dizzy heights of deliciousness

I prefer to think of them as modest – they’re not showy like peppers, aubergines and squash, but in the right hands can be elevated to dizzy heights of deliciousness.

Cauliflower, like cabbage, can be completely ruined when not treated sympathetically and with care. Nothing stinks more than overcooked cauliflower and nothing is as hard to eat as an undercooked floret. My pet hate is being served boiled cauliflower still swimming in water. A chef who can’t be bothered to drain a vegetable shouldn’t be allowed to wear the white jacket.

Recently I saw cauliflower steaks in a supermarket – a cut from the centre, imprisoned in plastic. Apart from the waste, the nonsense of this took my breath away. Not eating the leaves of this pristine white vegetable is a recent thing in our all too disposable society.

Why throw out something so nutritious and tasty? Roasting a cauliflower whole, not only cuts out waste but the smoky taste is unique and can be a stunning centrepiece of any meal. In my recipe the cauliflower is roasted with mustard to begin with, glazed with cheese and sprinkled with crisp, golden bacon and parsley studded crumbs. Bring it to the table and slice portions that will go well with any roast. Omit the bacon for a vegetarian course.

Cauliflower and curry make a great partnership. Massaman curry is a relatively mild Thai dish and is a fusion of ingredients and methods from Persian, Indian and Malay cuisines. Spices like cinnamon , clove and nutmeg were fused into Thai cooking with their fragrant commodities like lemongrass, ginger and garlic. Making a curry paste might seem like a bit of work but what you end up with is infinitely more superior to anything you’d buy in a jar. Make a load of it and freeze in icecube trays to use when you need. The curry here combines cauliflower with potatoes into a thick and rich dish you’ll forget is vegetarian. You could add some of the leaves as well rather than throwing them out.

Cauliflower is an often maligned vegetable but treating it with a little respect brings out the best in it. Go to your local greengrocer or farm shop to buy them. When they’re loose and not encased in wrapping, you’ll be able to tell their freshness by the vibrancy of their leaves and by how recently they were cut when you turn them upside down. This glisteningly pristine white vegetable is simply too good to ignore.