Every year in autumn the fishing boats come out of the harbour in Portstewart for a few months.

It’s always a bit sad when this happens, signalling the end of the summer and all the fantastic seafood they provide. It’s heart warming at this time of year to drive past the harbour and see them back in the water.

Like everything else, fresh fish has become quite expensive but a little goes a long way. Monkfish is robust, meaty fish that will stand up to strong flavours. Also known as Angler fish it’s not known for its good looks. Almost half the fish is taken up with its head containing a wide mouth and offset eyes. It also has a purplish black skin. When I started cooking the fishing boats coming into local harbours would have either thrown it back into the water or used it for bait. It’s unthinkable this used to happen. Take away the head and slimy skin and it belies translucent white flesh. It’s firm enough to grill on the barbecue and really suits being kissed by a bit of smoke. My first recipe is for monkfish kebabs – marinate them in a spice and lemon mixture for a couple of hours before placing on a hot grill or frying pan if the weather isn’t good. A lot of people are hesitant about cooking fish in the house because they think it smells. Fresh fish is odourless and only starts to whiff when it deteriorates. The kebabs here are paired with a couscous and chick pea salad.

Mackerel are starting to come into season now. This humble fish is actually one of the tastiest. When you catch it and cook it soon after there’s nothing to beat it, with a squeeze of lemon and some wheaten bread to mop up the juices. Here the fish gets a quick cook and glaze with a teriyaki marinade. Its served with hot and sour beetroot – the earthy sweetness of the vegetable goes beautifully with the oily fish. For an extra side I’ve added some potatoes tossed in a seaweed butter.

There aren’t many fishmongers left here now so cherish the ones we have – give them a visit and they’ll be happy to advise on the best fish to buy.