Without doubt the elderberry crop has been particularly prolific this year

Elder was considered sacred in ancient folklore. A myth was that Elder Mother, a spirit that inhabits the tree and has the power to work a variety of magic in the world. Carrying elder wood, leaves and flowers was said to protect you from attack. Conversely among Christians the tree was a fearful symbol of sorrow and death. It’s claimed Judas hung himself on an elder tree and that wood from the tree was used to make Jesus’ cross.

The health benefits of elder have been documented for millennia. Hippocrates, the Greek physician and father of medicine said of elder “this plant of God heals anything it touches”. You can take elderberry supplements to boost the immune system and protect you from colds but it’s cheaper and probably more effective to make your own potion. Elderberries need to be cooked before consuming and in the recipe for my elderberry elixir they’re boiled with water, ginger, cloves, cinnamon and honey – that reads like everything that does you good. Make a load and store in clean jars or bottles in the fridge. You can take a spoonful raw or add water. I normally stock pile elderberries in the freezer and make the elixir on a regular basis to ward off the usual winter bugs.

The berries have an interesting, complex flavour that is also valuable in culinary uses. Their sharpness is good for cutting through rich foods. Every year I also make an elderberry and Port jelly – you make this in the usual way by boiling the berries with cooking apple, port and water and then passing through a suspending jelly bag before boiling with sugar to a thick liquid. Here I’ve used it to serve with cured duck breasts but you could have it with cheese, ham, cured meats or game.

In my other recipe this week the elderberries are used as a cure for mackerel. You’ll still be able to source fresh mackerel from the fishmonger and it really suits this treatment. It adds a lovely pink hue to the flesh. For something zingy and crunchy I’ve added a radish and pickled walnut salad. These treasures are ripe for the picking but they won’t be around for much longer so make the most of them while they’re here.