Barbecues used to mean sausages and burgers but we’re now more ambitious

Is there anything nicer than the smell of meat on the grill, the sound of sizzling and the sun on your face? A barbecue used to mean sausages and burgers, maybe a kebab thrown in but we’ve become so much more ambitious. Don’t get me wrong I love a burger on the grill but it’s also nice to liven up the outdoor cooking. Lamb is one of my favourite meats but I’m aware that it can elicit bad reactions. Some tend to be put off the smell which I don’t understand. If the meat is fresh it shouldn’t have a strong smell. Go to a good butcher and ask for some lamb leg steaks. They have just the right amount of fat to keep them from drying out. Season them up and after brushing with oil, and grilling, start to brush with a nice glaze of honey and vinegar to caramelise the meat. Like you would inside, allow the grilled meat to rest before serving.

When I’m grilling I like to do a good balance of grilled meats counterbalanced with vegetables on the grill. Local runner beans are available now and cooking them over coal really makes them shine. Blanch first in boiling salted water for a minute which will help retain their vibrant verdancy when you grill. Have a dressing ready for the hot vegetables. In this case I’ve gone with an Italian vibe with garlic, shallots, vinegar and lots of basil. Toss the beans in this and they’ll soak up the flavours. Finish off with lots of freshly grated parmesan. And don’t miss out on spuds just because you’re grilling. At this time of year you can buy small local spuds – give them a scrub, boil gently until just cooked. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a roasting pan on the grill and add the spuds. Cook until golden. Brush them with rosemary butter and serve. A summer feast from the grill.

Ordinarily when I’m barbecuing I don’t really bother with pudding but the peaches are still good and they work well on the grill. Make sure they’re ripe. Peaches still make me think of the classic dessert Peach Melba and this version is done on the barbecue. The raspberry element is the fruit cooked in a foil parcel with sugar and brandy on the grill. You could serve this with ice cream but I love a bit of Italian meringue with fruit. This version of the sugary treat involves hot sugar syrup being whisked into the egg white. It will hold its shape so you could make it up an hour before hand. Spoon or pipe over the peaches and raspberries and blowtorch to glaze. A bit of theatre for the pudding!